Real vs Faux Leather
Real leather — chrome-tanned, vegetable-tanned, or suede — is the premium choice for durability, appearance, and workability. It's also expensive and requires specific tools and techniques. Faux leather (vinyl, pleather, PU leather) is far more affordable, available in colours that real leather isn't, and adequate for many cosplay applications. For convention wear that will be worn occasionally rather than daily, faux leather often provides a good enough result at a fraction of the cost.
Cutting and Tooling
Leather requires sharp tools — a rotary cutter or craft knife for straight cuts, leather scissors for curves. Standard sewing scissors will dull rapidly on leather. For tooling (stamping and carving surface decoration into vegetable-tanned leather), a dampened surface takes the tool impression best. A swivel knife cuts design lines; letter stamps and decorative stamps create texture and pattern.
Stitching Leather
Leather can be machine-sewn with a leather needle (which has a cutting rather than piercing point) at a longer stitch length than fabric. Use polyester thread rather than cotton — it's stronger and more resistant to moisture. For hand-stitching, a stitching groover and pricking irons create consistent, professional-looking saddle stitch. Gluing (with leather cement or contact cement) before stitching holds pieces in position and distributes stress more evenly.
Finishing
Leather edges need finishing to prevent fraying (real leather) or to look professional (faux leather). Options include: edge bevelling and burnishing (for real leather), edge paint applied with a roller, and fold-under seam allowances. Condition real leather after construction with a leather conditioner — this keeps it supple and extends its life significantly.