Why Measurements Matter
A custom costume commission that fits perfectly begins with accurate measurements. Measurement errors that seem small at the taking stage — a centimetre out on the bust, not accounting for your natural waist vs your preferred wearing position — compound through the pattern drafting and construction process and can result in a garment that requires significant alteration or reconstruction. Getting the measurements right the first time is worth the extra attention.
What You'll Need
A flexible tape measure (not a rigid ruler), your best-fitting undergarments (the ones you'll wear under the costume), your intended footwear if the commission includes a hem that needs to be calibrated to your heel height, and ideally someone to help take the measurements — several key measurements are very difficult to take accurately on yourself.
Standard Garment Measurements
- Bust: around the fullest point of the chest, tape parallel to the floor, not tight. Take a deep breath and measure on the exhale.
- High bust: directly under the armpits, above the fullest point of the chest. Use this to choose your pattern size if pattern grading is involved.
- Underbust: directly under the bust where a bra band sits. Critical for bodice and corset work.
- Waist: at the natural waist — the narrowest point of the torso, typically 2–3 inches above the navel. Stand naturally; don't hold your breath or pull in.
- Hip: at the fullest point, typically 7–9 inches below the natural waist. Measure straight around, not following the curve.
- Height: without shoes, standing straight against a wall.
- Torso length: from the prominent neck bone (7th cervical vertebra) straight down the spine to the natural waist.
Additional Measurements by Garment Type
Sleeves: arm length from shoulder point to wrist with arm slightly bent; upper arm circumference at the widest point; wrist circumference.
Trousers/skirts: inseam length (crotch to floor); outseam length (waist to floor); thigh circumference; knee circumference for fitted styles.
Corsets: Heidi takes an extended measurement set (20+ points) in person at the initial corset consultation. Do not attempt remote corset measurements.
Include your measurements in your initial enquiry via the contact form. Photos showing your proportions are helpful for fitted garments — Heidi will request these if needed for your specific project.
Frequently Asked Questions
With a flexible tape measure around the fullest point of the chest, parallel to the floor. Take the measurement on the exhale after a normal breath — not pulled in, not puffed out.
High bust is measured above the fullest point of the chest, directly under the armpits. Full bust is measured at the fullest point. For choosing pattern sizes and for fitted bodice work, both measurements are needed.
Measurements give numbers but not shape. Photos (taken from front, side, and back in fitted clothing) show how your proportions are distributed and help identify fitting approaches that will work for your specific body.