The Core Problem with Commercial Patterns
Commercial sewing patterns assume a specific relationship between bust, waist, and hip measurements that doesn't reflect the range of actual body proportions. For plus-size figures — or any figure where one measurement is significantly different from what the pattern assumes — using a pattern straight from the envelope produces a garment that fits nowhere. The solution is grading: adjusting the pattern between the measurements where it fits and the measurements where it doesn't.
Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
The most common required adjustment for larger busts: the Full Bust Adjustment adds length and width to the bodice front without changing the shoulder or side seam. Without an FBA, a fitted bodice on a larger bust will pull, gap at the neckline, and be too tight across the fullest point. See the pattern grading guide for the specific steps.
Choosing What to Build
Any character can be cosplayed by any body — the only question is how to translate the design to your specific proportions. Some design elements (horizontal stripes, very high-waisted cuts, very short hemlines) require more consideration for different body types. But there are no designs that are "forbidden" for specific body shapes; there are only construction decisions that need to be made thoughtfully.